A few years ago, the kids and I sailed up the Nile, from Luxor to Aswan and then back down again. It was eight days packed with experiences, impressions, sights and smells, meandering through present-day Egypt as much as the past. Alex was studying archaeology at the time and learned heaps.
In earlier posts, I’ve talked about Egyptian traffic and having high tea at the Old Cataract hotel (of Agatha Christie fame), about boating up the Nile, and about Elephantine, the quirky and delightful Nubian island in the river. We left off at Karnak, the largest ancient religious site in the world.
Picking up where we left, our little … well, smallish, boat continued towards Edfu. These are my notes:
No wake-up call this morning. During the night, we passed the locks at Esna and sadly missed that, but we’re going back down river later, so no worries. There was talk of hustlers in boats throwing their wares on board at Esna. Cat, my youngest, is excitedly anticipating that on the return trip. After a wonderfully lazy morning, we’ve gone ashore at Edfu.
Up river from Luxor, about 100 km, is Edfu Temple, the best preserved in Egypt, perhaps in all of antiquity. Edfu Temple is from the Ptolemaic period, a mere 2200 years old or so – hardly any age at all in this land. In fact, this large temple is built on the site of an older temple, from the New Kingdom.
The pylon is impressive; 56 metres high, taller than the one at Karnak but not as wide. It’s difficult to imagine this temple covered almost to the ceiling with sand, as it was when discovered in the mid-1800s. It must have been stuffy, claustrophobic. The ceilings of the hypostyle hall (a hall with a roof supported by columns) are decorated with astronomical motifs. But people through the ages have sought refuge from the weather in here and the ceiling has been damaged by smoke from their cooking fires.
Horus at Edfu Temple
Edfu Temple is dedicated to Horus, the falcon-headed god. Horus, in case you’ve forgotten, is one of the most important Egyptian deities. He’s god of the sun, god of war and protector of Egypt. Horus is also son of Isis and Osiris. When Osiris is killed by Set, his widow asks their son to protect Egypt from this vicious creature.
The famous battle between Horus and his arch enemy is depicted along the walls here, as a conflict between a hippo and a crocodile. And how do we know that’s what it means? Because of the Edfu Project at the Archaeological Institute at the University of Hamburg, who has taken on the task of translating the hieroglyphs.
I really enjoyed visiting Edfu Temple. It’s less overwhelming than Karnak and much more intimate. Even though – or perhaps because – it was afternoon, our little group had the grounds mostly to ourselves. We had plenty of time to amble about on our own, touching the ancient walls and carved drawings, imagining those that inscribed them. And deciphering a few hieroglyphs of our own.
Have you visited the sights of Ancient Egypt? If so, which was your favourite?
Want to see more photos from near and afar? Hop over to Travel Photo Thursday.
I’ve only been to the pyramids in Giza, Djoser and a couple more in the vicinity of Cairo. Never made it to Luxor, which is a great pity judging from your story and photos.
ItalianNotes recently posted..Italian Christmas celebrations
Luxor is a fabulous city, lively and deliciously chaotic. I’d love to do a boat journey between Cairo and Luxor. They just reopened that stretch of the Nile for the boats earlier this year.
We only went as far south as Luxor on our Egypt trip. Thebes and Karnak were wonderful but I do fancy going back and doing that boat trip. (closet Agatha Christie fan here)
Natasha von Geldern recently posted..Australia snapshot: Melbourne’s Fed Square
Ooh, you’d love that river journey then, Natasha. Meandering slowly up the Nile is wonderful food for the imagination.
Looks fun! I would love to visit Egypt, and this looks like it would have less of the tourist hordes there as well
Jade – OurOyster.com recently posted..A Weekend Guide To Cornwall
Absolutely worth a visit this one.
AH! You just reminded me I should talk about this temple and post my photos
I loved it as well!
- Maria Alexandra
Travel the Middle East Maria recently posted..Middle Eastern sites and columns: What I’ve seen (photos)
Looking forward to seeing it, Maria
I never visit Egipt
Muza-chan recently posted..Japanese waterproof technique, Namako wall
Hope you do someday, Muza-chan
Egyptian history is something I’m ever fascinated about so this is an interesting read to me.
Salika Jay recently posted..Best International Airlines To Fly
Egypt does seem to draw people in with all its history – and mysteries. Thoroughly fascinating country it is.
Egypt is one place that I have yet to travel too. The incredible history of the country appeals to me so it is certainly of the list. When I go I will certainly remember to add Edfu to the itinerary
jenny@atasteoftravel recently posted..Rüstem Pasha: My Favourite Mosque in Istanbul
It was always high on my list as well. I was there first with my oldest daughter when she was 4, now nearly 20 years ago (yikes!) – then again on this river journey. Still lots more to see and experience.
Oh you’ve tickled the travel bug with this post! We must get to Egypt one day.
Jackie Smith recently posted..On a Mission South of Tucson. . .
Thanks
I think visiting a site like this when you have to to yourself makes a huge difference. I wonder how a cruise like that would be in Egypt this week.
Leigh recently posted..11 National Parks in Canada You Probably Haven’t Heard Of
Sadly yes, although I think the current troubles are more focused in Cairo and on Sinai. Eagerly anticipating calmer times in the whole country – and region…
My husband has traveled in Egypt but the girls and I have not yet been and it’s near the top of our list of places that we most want to visit. Since my younger daughter was quite little she has been asking to to go Egypt to see the pyramids and I think she would be fascinated with a temple like Edfu as well. The experience of sailing the Nile between Luxor and Aswan must have been incredible!
Lisa from Gone With The Family recently posted..The Gift of Travel
Incredible indeed; a river cruise like no other. Not a lot of children on Nile boats, though. At least, my youngest daughter (then 6) was the only child on board – which meant she was completely spoiled by everyone, especially the crew. Naturally, she loved it.
Loved this temple! We arrived via felucca. There were only a few other people there, so pretty similar situation. It makes it a little more special, doesn’t it?
Linda McCormick recently posted..Discovering Australia’s Great Ocean Road by Foot
It make a huge difference, I think, especially to the atmosphere and to my focus.
This is an informative post, Sophie — thanks! Sadly, Egypt’s still on my list. Hope to scratch it off soon.
InsideJourneys recently posted..Pigeon Peas
I think you’d really enjoy Egypt, Marcia
Nifty shots. Had never heard of this place before.
Dick Jordan recently posted..Travel Photo Thursday: Roof Lines
It does rather fall in the shadow of the more famous temples.
I would love to visit Egypt some day. Your river cruise sounds like a fantastic way to do it. And yes, it is hard to imagine this temple covered in sand.
Michele @ Malaysian Meanders recently posted..Blending in with the Locals
A river cruise in Egypt is fantastic. My kids thinks it was one of their best holidays ever.
I spent a month in Egypt in 2004 and loved it. I floated down the Nile on a Felucca, rode a camel into the desert, and spent hours and hours in the museum. I had a lot of favorite moments…Karnack, Luxor and Abu Simbel come to mind. I didn’t get to see Edfu; next time!
Nancie recently posted..In Celebration of Budget Travelers Sandbox 3rd Birthday…My Personal Travel Trivia
A whole month would be wonderful – slowly sailing up the Nile, riding through the desert, something so haunting and forever attractive about that. On our boat journey, we met an elderly Danish lady who had visited more than 40 times, just couldn’t get enough of Egypt. She rented cars and drove around all on her own.
What a magnificent Iooking temple, Sophie. A very cute shot to finish, too! And to answer your question, no, I haven’t… not yet.
Andrew Graeme Gould recently posted..Arica, Chile: people and places
You’d no doubt take magical photos there