Bratislava is cosy with Christmas spirit all around. Not the elegance of Vienna – which I think must be unequalled. But cosy.

And there’s a marked difference. I do feel I’m in Eastern Europe; it still exists. Nice to know not everything is the same everywhere – yet.

All kinds of things are on offer at the Christmas Markets in Bratislava: hats, scarves, handbags, toys, lollipops, porcelain and ceramic cups for 170 koruna, Medovina for the same price. All in all, if price is an issue, Bratislava is probably an all-round better bet than Vienna.

There’s a great emphasis on food and drink here in Bratislava. The beer/vino/grog-tents on the old square are really more reminiscent of Oktoberfest in Munich: Narrow, red folding tables, a blue plastic rubbish bin next to each table. I’m glad they’re thinking clean-up, but those plastic bins really dominate the picture.

But the chocolate cafe (next to the brass doors of Roland restaurant) has an amazing chocolate selection and that incredible 4-tiered chocolate fountain with thick, gooey chocolate running down it – slowly and continuously.

Otherwise, Bratislava is foggy and cold this afternoon.