Enchanting Chanthaburi and community-based tourism

2018-01-11T11:13:05+00:008 June 2016|Thailand, Traditions and customs|

You know, I’ve never been an ardent Thailand enthusiast. Oh, I’ve been there once or twice, well, three times, actually – in Bangkok, in Phuket, in Phang Nga Bay, on Koh Samui, and most recently in Ayutthaya. The temples are beautiful, the beaches equally so, the people friendly and the food the best there is…, but I just never felt that special magic that seems to hit everyone the minute they step onto the whiter than white sand. It’s not your fault, Thailand. Rather, there’s that slightly bitter flavour of western hedonism that seems to be especially prevalent among travellers to Thailand, the unsavoury attitudes you meet even before you leave your home airport.

Then an invitation from Thailand’s Tourism Authority popped into the mailbox, suggesting I have a look at a different side of this oh-so-popular country. Would I come and experience community-based tourism? A self-explanatory term, perhaps – but I’ll say a few words about it anyway. Community-based tourism means visitors (that’s us) get a glimpse of life in a community, with residents inviting us to take part in local, cultural activities and teaching us time-honoured crafts. Most importantly, everything remains at the local level: they set the conditions, they retain control and, not least, they reap the benefits. That’s quite a change.

I was curious naturally, so I adjusted the brain and body settings to explore mode, and off I went. We were five Nordic journos and bloggers, strangers at first, now friends. We began and ended in Bangkok, where I hadn’t been since 1994. (Where did all the tuk-tuks disappear to? This time, I could easily count the few I saw – on one hand.) However, we spent most of the time in Thailand’s eastern provinces, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat, near the Cambodian border.

#NothingIsOrdinary

What I found was Thailand beyond the tourist beat, Thailand beyond the beaches, the busy bars, and the full moon parties. This was traditional Thailand, green, sustainable Thailand. And I came home with a more profound awareness of Mueang Thai, as the locals call their country – a deeper understanding of the country and its people.

Last week, I wrote about a wonderful eco-spa in Trat. This week, we’ll take a look at Chanthaburi – but first a quick stop along the way.

Rayong province

On the way east, we stop for lunch at the lovely Prai Rayong, an outdoor restaurant and oyster farm, where the seafood is delicious –

–  and the colours bright and cheery.

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Chanthaburi province

Chanthaburi province is famous for mat weaving, fruits and gemstones. At the little village Samet Ngam is Chanthaburi Mat Weaving Local Handicraft Centre, where you can see the process, from harvesting the Kok reed, drying, it, dying it and waving colourful mats, flip-flops, bags, and dolls.

Mat weaving

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Mat weaving in Thailand's Chanthaburi province.

Fruit at the palace

These lovely dancers welcome visitors to the Suan Ban Kaew Palace. This was once the residence of Queen Rambhai Barni, the wife of King Rama VII. Today it serves as a cultural history museum.

Dancers in Chanthaburi Thailand.

Here’s a small selection of rambutan, mangosteens and other fruity goodness in Chanthaburi.

Rambutan, Mangosteen, and other fruity goodness from Thailand's Chanthaburi province.

The king of fruit is the dreaded durian. Be careful when you cut it – and when you smell it. It’s illegal to bring on the metro, even in Bangkok. But don’t let that stop you from trying a bite or two. Like a mature Stilton, it smells like death warmed up – but has a very pleasant taste.

Chanthaburi town

In Chanthaburi town is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. It is said to be the lovliest Christian church in all of Thailand, and reminds us of Vietnamese fleeing religious persecution at home. The church is beautiful.

Christian church in Chanthaburi

Chantaboon Riverside Community

My absolute favourite part of this province is the 300-year-old Chanthaboon Riverside Community. Just past the church is a foot bridge, from where you can get a first glimpse.

The 300-year-old Chantaboon Riverside Community, seen from the foot bridge across the Chanthaburi river.

Once across, you’ll find lovely old houses and shops, colourful doors, unexpected murals, sweet street signs…

chess played in cafes…

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… the gorgeous Baan Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn, where I would love to spend the night in a room overlooking the river.  Then I’d pretend it was 1916, sit on the veranda and not do anything but watch the water drift past.

Chantaboon Riverside Community, Chanthaburi Thailand

Gemstones

Remember I mentioned mat weaving, fruit and gemstones being the main industries in this part of Thailand? At Ban Roy Sib Kaw shop, I cut and polish my very own yellow sapphire. Or at least, I give it a fair go. However, more experienced (and more patient) hands than mine are needed to make it beautiful.

Have you experienced community-based tourism, in Thailand or elsewhere? I’d love to hear about it in the comments below.

Disclosure: I was a guest of TAT, the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Every bit of clumsy craftsmanship, every thought and opinion, are mine, all mine. As ever.

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9 Comments

  1. OnTrip.dk 9 June 2016 at 2154 - Reply

    Super godt indlæg du har skrevet om Chanthaburi, Sophie. Du tager mig med tilbage til Thailand og jeg kommer til at savne jeres selskab og alle vores gode oplevelser. Jeg synes at du har formået at komme rigtig godt rundt om alle vores oplevelser tilsat lækre billeder. Stor ros til dig fra mig :-)Godt arbejde!
    /Annette

    • Anne-Sophie Redisch 9 June 2016 at 2234 - Reply

      Tusen takk for det, Annette. Det var en særdeles hyggelig reise i godt selskap 🙂

  2. Ruth - Tanama Tales 10 June 2016 at 0557 - Reply

    Sophie, all of this is awesome. I like to visit popular destinations for obvious reasons but tend to fall in love with lesser know areas and cities. I would love to have an adventure similar to your in Thailand. I love the country but share a bit of your dislike for certain things that happen in the country. Things tend to be presented in a fairy tale mode when reality is something totally different.

  3. Sanna Rosell 10 June 2016 at 2219 - Reply

    The photo of Chantaboon seen from the bridge is wonderful. Like a impressionistic painting by Monet or similar, just wonderful!

  4. Indrani 12 June 2016 at 0445 - Reply

    Whoa! Such a lot to see! Amazing colors there!
    A great presentation of slices of scene from different subjects! The fruits’ pic got me craving for them. 🙂

  5. budget jan 13 June 2016 at 0619 - Reply

    Wow, how lovely to be invited to visit these communities. You photo of the river at Chanthaboon Riverside Community is unreal – I thought it was a painting at first until I recognised the orange building from the close up photo!

  6. Torben Linnemann 21 June 2016 at 1234 - Reply

    Når jeg falder over sådan en dejlig artikel så er jeg glad for at jeg bl.a. bliver betalt for at sidde og læse rejseblogs 🙂

    Nøj hvor jeg savner Thailand lige nu.

    • Anne-Sophie Redisch 23 June 2016 at 1121 - Reply

      Takk for hyggelige ord 🙂

  7. philippe 28 August 2016 at 0921 - Reply

    Wow, must go there soon ! Thanks.

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