In the Aegean Sea, just a short hop across a narrow strait from Turkey, lies the third largest of the Greek islands, Lesbos.
The island is a secret, almost – and all about living the good life in a sustainable manner. Lesbos produces the best olive oil in Greece and the local Ouzu is sought after and difficult to find outside the island. This is one Greek island that doesn’t rely heavily on tourism for its existence.
Lesbos is also a dream destination for the ecologically aware visitor. Not only will you find all things Greek: gorgeous beaches along sparkling blue ocean, small, white churches and chapels, olive groves and lively village squares. You’ll also find mountains, forests and rivers. You’ll experience dry heat from the Levant and humid greenery, pink flamingos and chestnut trees. You’ll find canyons and rocky capes, monks dressed in black and roaming donkeys.
We were there a few years ago, in early May – much too early for those coming to worship sun, sand and ouzo, but perfect if you’re there to explore the hills and valleys, the rich flora and fauna. The photos are from Plomari, a town that back then seemed locked in a different era.
Lesbians – and lesbians
You’re of course curious about the island’s name: In the town of Eresos, about 2 500 ears ago, lived a woman named Sappho, one of the famous nine lyric poets of antiquity. She is celebrated as a Lesbian poet – and of course she was. Every inhabitant of Lesbos, man or woman, is a Lesbian.
But was she also a lesbian? The philosopher Maximus of Tyre said of Socrates and Sappho that they both loved many, and were captivated by all things beautiful… Just as for Socrates, Sappho’s sexuality is debated.
Naturally, the island – and especially Eresos – attracts a fair few lesbian tourists on pilgrimages. This is somewhat of a difficult issue for the more conservative parts of the Greek Orthodox Church. A few years ago, three islanders tried to ban the use of the word lesbian in a sexual context, claiming it violated their human rights. That’s taking matters a bit far, wouldn’t you say? At least, that’s what the Athens court thought. Not surprisingly, the islanders lost the court appeal.
Side-stepping the issue altogether, most locals we spoke with referred to the island as Mytilini or Mytilene, after the island capital.
Lesbians
Getting to Lesbos
Whatever your take on the sexual politics, Lesbos/Mytilini is a beautiful and unusual island, well worth visiting. I suggest you stay clear of the European holidays (basically, the entire month of August). To get there, fly from Athens, or take the over-night ferry from Piraeus – about 13.5 hrs. Or take the ferry from the Turkish port of Ayvalik (near Bergama/Pergamon) – about 1.5 hrs.
Any thoughts on the islanders’ naming conundrum? What’s your favourite island?
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What a fascinating story. I remember hearing about the mythology at school, but I wasn’t aware there had been a court case about the right to use the name.
Interesting, isn’t it…
I love this post! Not only for the Geek Mythology and lovely photographs but for the ever evolving debates relating to sexual politics ha ha! Charles Baudelaire wrote a rather erotic poem entitled “Lesbos” in ode to this place:
“Lesbos, land of hot and languorous nights,
That make the hollow-eyed girls, amorous
Of their own bodies, caress before their mirrors
The ripe fruits of their nubility, O sterile pleasure!
Lesbos, land of hot and languorous nights”
That’s a pretty sexy poem.
Calling it Mytilini is an elegant solution 🙂
All the photos are beautiful but for some reason, my favourite is the one with the donkey.
At least, he (or she) doesn’t care about the island’s name 🙂
I’m open minded – whatever is good for the locals is good for me and this is one Greek island that sounds absolutely lovely.
That it is.
This place is on my bucket list – I want to do all the Greek islands that have ferry routes from Turkey. The name does not bother me but Mytilini does sound more mystical!
Mytilini is a pretty name, isn’t it? I’ve taken ferries between various Greek islands and the Turkish coast – apart from this one, Cesme and Chios, Marmaris and Rhodes. I want to see the rest as well, both the islands and the Turkish coastal towns.
Who cares about the origins of its name when it looks like that! Beautiful photos!
Thanks.
I kind of see their concerns about the name, it does get confusing if you are from that area and someone asks you about it. However, besides the name drama, I think this place is beautiful =D
I can see how it must feel a bit odd, at least.
Sounds gorgeous, I’ve only been to Santorini and Paphos – love how the Greek Islands each have their own distinct personality! I also like the idea of visiting Sappho’s home!
They really are surprisingly different from one another, the Greek islands.
I understand how it would be confusing, but I personally think it’s kind of funny that Lesbos residents are called lesbians. And seriously, those three citizens trying to claim that their human rights were being violated? I don’t think so.
It does sound a bit absurd. And even if they had won in the Greek courts, it wouldn’t have carried internationally.
That’s a beautiful town, the typical yesteryear Greek scene. Although the name might sound a bit odd, I still find they history fascinating.
Yesteryear is a good description – it did feel different and old-fashioned in a nice, relaxed way.
hmm…it should sound strange if guy would tell “I am a Lesbian” if somebody doesn’t know about Lesbos island.
Strange, indeed.
Plenty of room for comedy I suppose if your “nationality” is best described with the word lesbian!
Yeah, one would have thought Monty Python would have made something out of it.
Great story, and certainly an interesting history!
Very interesting!
I’ve heard the name of the island Lesbos all of my life, but never really knew much about it beyond Sappho. It looks like a wonderful place to spend some time. Some local Ouzu might be nice, too. The donkey photo is a treasure.
Lovely place. And lovely Ouzo.
Love all the mythology of the Greek Isles. I would love to spend my time wandering through the isles making sure to stop at some of the lesser known ones. Lesbos would be on the list! Thanks for sharing this interesting story.
Greece is wonderful for island hopping – and very easy and accessible, too..
Wandering donkeys – it’s on the list. And you think I’m joking…
Nice photos.
Joking? But no, no…
And thanks 🙂
Oh wow, I didn’t realise the islanders had such issues with the name of their island and I had no idea they used an alternative. Whatever anyone chooses to call it, it’s certainly a pretty place but I think we would go in May, like you, then we could go trekking.
Julia
It’s a great island for exploring nature.
I’ve never heard of Lesbos, and yes I can see that would be quite a predicament for a religious/conservative island. I personally find it rather amusing, but I am neither religious or conservative.
If they could get past being offended, I think humour would probably be the best way to deal with it.
I love how this Greek island looks with roaming donkeys too. I can see why this would be a popular place for pilgrimages (lesbian or not). Such an interesting take on the name and its history. Mytilini just doesn’t sound as cool as Lesbos.
Of course so many parts of Greece is full of intriguing history, but this island is quite unique, I think.
An obscure island that I bet everyone has heard of, haha – some interesting history here! I love the idea of an ecological island – and that shot of the donkey! =)
Must be something about that donkey 🙂
This is a pretty good hidden secret, I had never heard of it. Do they have tacky t-shirts making fun of the name?
Been a few years since I was there, but there was no joking about it then. Considering the relatively recent trial, I would be surprised if they had lesbian t-shirts.
As soon as I saw Lesbos, I thought lesbians, not Lesbians. They became famous (or infamous) and didn’t have a hand it it. If I lived there, I’d want it changed too. Beautiful island, though.
Although I think taking the case to court is going a bit far, I see their problem. How to solve it is another matter – I suppose relinquishing the name (and choosing Mytilini instead) is one solution, but considering the long history, that’s a bit sad, too.
I had to read Sappho in college so Lesbos sounds fascinating. I like how the island isn’t all about tourism, much like the other Greek islands and has a bit of quirky story behind it.
Sort of funny about the name! The island is gorgeous.
hahahaha i want to move there for a few months so that i can tell people that I am a Lesbian and have it be true
Great and funny story about the name! I’ve never been to Lesbos, and my favourite island in Greece is not quite an island – the Sithonia peninsula of Halkidiki in Northern Greece. The perfect, relaxing getaway.
Crazy, I was literally researching Lesbos this morning on Wikipedia. Thanks so much for the interesting story and personal insights.
It’s always so interesting to read blogs about the Greek islands. Every single one of them has a unique identity and characteristic of its own. =)
The Greek islands are undoubtedly unique and so interesting 🙂