One of the world’s most troubled, yet fascinating regions, here’s a collection of Middle East travel stories.
Latest Middle East travel stories
Two highlights of Bahrain: Qal’at al-Bahrain and Bahrain National Museum
It's early evening in the village surrounding Qal’at al-Bahrain. The creatively decorated houses remind me of pictures in fairy-tales, especially through the filter of the setting sun. Five horsemen appear out of the dusk in front of the silhouette of a large 16th century Portuguese fort. This is home to Iranians, says Aziz, my guide for the evening. This is [...]
Kuwait Towers
30-year-old Kuwait Towers is probably the best known landmark on the Arabian Peninsula. Outside Dubai, that is. Designed by Scandinavians, and comprising two large spheres and a spike, the iconic towers are likely the top tourist attraction in Kuwait City. My first proper look at Kuwait Towers is through the windows of Le Nôtre, a French cafe along Arabian Gulf [...]
The Bedoun – Kuwait’s stateless people
On my old blog, I touch upon the issue of the Bedoun (although mostly my ignorance of the matter). This is what I wrote then - from the observation deck of Kuwait Towers: I'm soon joined by the only other westerner here. A journo from a Central European country, he is there to cover the issue of the Bedoo. 'The [...]
Kuwait Gulf War Memorial
The most evocative house in Kuwait City must surely be the Kuwait Gulf War memorial - or Kuwait House of National Memorial Museum, as it's officially called - Bait Al Watani in Arabic. Outside the house is an Iraqi tank. The taxi driver, Assis, ensures I see it. The 1 KD entrance fee gets me a personal guide. Sakina begins [...]
The Musandam Peninsula – Oman at last (Day out Dubai)
Up close, the massive Hajar Mountains appears arid and inhospitable, yet oddly attractive. In places, the mountain sides looks about to crumble and fall. Once or twice during the 45 km stretch of road, they have. A few large rocks block part of the road.
Fujairah, the friendly emirate
Some of the seven emirates we quite liked, others less so. I'm happy to finish this series with Fujairah, the friendly emirate.
Abu Dhabi, the affluent emirate
Abu Dhabi holds a whopping 9 % of the world's oil reserves, is the richest city on earth, safe, green, clean and, dare I say it, a wee bit...
Sharjah, the energetic emirate
Between Ajman and Dubai lies Sharjah, the third largest emirate - and perhaps the third best known, as well. Sharjah is also the most conservative emirate: alcohol is completely forbidden, dress codes are strict and no mixing of men and women if unwed. Not even a sheesha cafe to be found. Lively Sharjah Despite those rather medieval policies, my first [...]
Ajman, the anonymous emirate
With a quarter of a million people, Ajman wasn't as tiny as I somehow had expected. Also, it seemed much more affluent than I had expected. I suppose that says more about my expectations.
Umm al-Quwain, the unsung emirate
Going south after our failed Musandam venture, our driver (you know, the one who had forgotten his passport) tried to persuade us to go directly from Ras al-Khaimah to Ajman, and give Umm al-Quwain a miss. But in my quest to see every single emirate, that simply would not do. He finally caved. The reason for his reluctance could have [...]
Ras al-Khaimah, the remote emirate
Ras-al-Khaimah and the United Arab Emirates Ras-al-Khaimah is one of the United Arab Emirates. The UAE comprises seven states. Formerly British protectorates, the emirates (then known as the Trucial Sheikhdoms) joined together to form a federation when the UK ended the relationship in 1971. Two other British protectorates, Bahrain and Qatar, were meant to join the union as well, but [...]
Dubai, the daydreaming emirate
Dubai is a study in contrast: an old souk with wooden beamed roofs in narrow alleyways. Just across the creek, hyper-modern skyscrapers of the most futuristic designs.











