Last week on Cornwall Sunday, Tintagel was the headline act, the place where the legendary King Arthur was conceived. Only right then, to also feature the place where his life ended (or did it?).
On our way from Bodmin Moor to Port Isaac, we drIve along a small Cornish road, the B3314. Between the villages of Camelford and Tintagel, we happen to pass a sign for the Arthurian Centre. Seem like a fun stop, particularly for a restless 8-year-old, so I make a quick U-turn.
That turns out to be a good decision, she enjoys it heaps. (Of course, she would have enjoyed any stop – she finds road trips a bit boring.) But the Arthurian Centre has a large playground with a castle (of course), tea and cakes for sale, brasses to rub, and a children’s Grail Trail.
For grown-ups, there’s an exhibition room with panels, photos and texts covering the 1 500 years of history surrounding the elusive king – a nice mixture of legends and historical facts. And best of all, there’s a nature trail, leading to Slaughterbridge and King Arthur’s Stone.
Slaughterbridge
Difficult to imagine this peaceful field was once the setting of a fierce battle, isn’t it? There’s historical evidence suggesting battles have been fought here in ancient times, but was it the legendary Battle of Camlann in 537?
Our friend, Geoffrey of Monmouth (the 12th century author of History of the Kings of Britain), thinks so. This is what he has to say about the Battle of Camlann:
Arthur was filled with great mental anguish by the fact that Mordred had escaped him so often. Without losing a moment, he followed him to that same locality, the River Camlann, where Mordred was awaiting his arrival.
Accounts of the battle talks of the little river turning red with blood, of Arthur and Mordred fighting hand-to-hand on a bridge across the river. Arthur slew Mordred but was already fatally wounded by Mordred’s poisonous sword. From here, various endings are offered. In one, Arthur staggers to his death right here. In another, he is brought to Avalon, a place with healing properties (possibly the Isles of Scilly off the Cornish coast).
By some accounts, Mordred was Arthur’s nephew. Others have claimed he was Arthur’s illegitimate son by his half-sister, the sorceress Morgana. Today’s family relationships can be bad enough, but those of old seem somehow more dramatic, don’t you think?
Arthur’s Stone
Continuing past the battlefield, across the grounds of Worthyvale Manor (mentioned in the Domesday Book), we arrive at Lady Falmouth’s Secret Garden, created about 250 years ago, around the pièce de résistance: Arthur’s Stone.
Arthur’s stone, seen from the bridge above the creek and close-up
Well, a memorial stone from his era, at any rate. It’s a large stone, almost 3 metres long, and it’s inscribed in Latin. The incomplete inscription reads something like LA (TI) NI IC IACIT FILIUS MA (…) RI, and its meaning has been hotly debated through the centuries. Is it merely “Latinus lies here, son of Ma (…) ri”? Or is it LATIN HIC JACET FILIUS MAGNI ARTURI – here lies Latin the son of Arthur the Great?
Interestingly, the stone is also inscribed in Ogham, an ancient Celtic script, dating it to 6th century, the time of Arthur. Irish archaeologist, Robert Macalister, suggested Ogham may have been a gesture alphabet for secret communication between Druids. Here’s the vertical version of the Ogham alphabet:
It reminds me of the Viking era runes we have up here.
Geoffrey of Monmouth isn’t the only one to wax lyrical about this place. Alfred, Lord Tennyson, wrote this on a visit here on 7 June 1848:
Camelford, Slaughterbridge, clear brook among elders. Sought for King Arthur’s Stone, found it at last by a rock under two or three sycamores. The Stone, a nine foot pillar lies in a dank and picturesque setting by a stream. It is an inscribed memorial stone of the sixth century.
Travel tips (2012)
If you’re in Cornwall this summer, see if you can time your visit to July, when the Festival of British Archaeology 2012 takes place. Archaeology students and lecturers from Winchester University will be digging at Slaughterbridge all through July, and you can join them. At the Arthurian Centre, there will be two Living History Weekends this summer – 28/29 July and 11/12 August – complete with battle re-enactments, archery competitions, falconry and much more.
That is sooo cool! I have heard stories about King Arthur, never thought if is was real or not. I do kind wish there is a path down there to the stone.
There wasn’t a path exactly, but you could always scramble down there. No barriers.
I think next time we’re back in Blighty (whenever that may be) we really must get back down to Cornwall. Such a long time since we were last there and we love all the myth and legend that surrounds it. Particularly the King Arthur stories.
Julia
Such a fascinating place Cornwall.
What an adventure!
Those Living History Weekends sound pretty cool.
Don’t they just? Been thinking of going back this summer. We’ll see.
You should, Sophie!
Fantastic. I love Arthurian legend and have been to Tintagel. It blows me away that Britain has this ancient stuff lying about in fields.
And so much of it!
I really love these posts about legendary King Arthur!
He was certainly an interesting character, whether real or not.
You had a great adventure..Thanks for sharing this beautiful photo..
Thanks.
I love king Arthur’s stories as well as Middle Age and all the stiries about kings, princesses and so on…It’ s the time Iove most…it’s so charming in my opinion!
Yes, it’s an enchanting era. Or at least portrayed as such.
That alphabet is really interesting! I’m looking forward to exploring more of those viking runes you mentioned. Really enjoying all the historical background to go along with these posts – looks like such a great place to explore with kids.
My kids really enjoyed it, both the grown-up and the little one.
Isn’t it fascinating stepping over the same paths where history has been written? I love it, I always try to stop a little and think about what that place means to its nation’s past.
I find I’m often fascinated, mesmerised even, by the history of a place. It draws you in.
Very cool write-up.
Thank you.
I love these stories! I know there are so many different interpretations but I’m still glad you shared them. And I’m glad she enjoyed the experience as well. Nice shots!
Thanks, Alexa.
Ah, King Arthur. Hasn’t really stopped fascinating us since childhood with stories of magic and gallantry.
and from such a fascinating era…
Great story 🙂
Thanks 🙂
How exciting. I DO so want Arthur to be real!
So do I, Vera. So do I.
Slaughterbridge? Sounds scary! 🙂 You find the coolest places!
Thank you 🙂
What a fun place! You always find the most interesting places and include the greatest details in your posts. When are you going to publish a guidebook?
Haha, that would be fun. But I’m afraid our travels are probably too incoherent. It would be a guide book to ‘quirky places with and without kids to here and there’ 🙂
What a great place to explore and learn more about the legend of King Arthur – my 8 year old would love to visit here.
Very kid-friendly and educational in the most fun way, Cornwall is.
When you look out at the peaceful fields it is hard to imagine just how horrible and bloody the battles of centuries ago were. Very informative post Sophie.
It really is. A bit like the poppy fields of Flanders…
Interesting bit of “history.”
if only we knew whether it (and he) were real…
Super interesting, Sophie. The photo of the field and your comment is thought-provoking. Sometimes hard to imagine the violence that’s taken place in these peaceful-looking places.
Isn’t it?. Nowadays we seem to be better at creating memorials at these sites.
That’s a cool little find, I definitely need to do more exploring in good old England since I am spending time there 🙂 All those Arthur legends are pretty cool.
Ah, you’re hanging out in England for a bit? I never seem to tire of it, always something new to explore.
Very nice find! I’m not sure why I haven’t spent more time in England. Oh wait — now I remember — no $$$. 🙂
London is not exactly a budget destination. But outside of the big cities, prices aren’t too bad.
Wow! I had no idea this existed. I will definitely add this to my list of must sees. Thanks for introducing me to some history.
You’re welcome!
Your Cornwall series has been so informative and interesting and really makes me want to visit. It looks like a great kid-friendly place too.
I think your inquisitive kids would really enjoy it 🙂
Fascinating. Love learning or finding out about history by going there. It allows the imagination to explore
Well said, Eileen 🙂
Interesting history, Sophie; and enjoyable read….history and legend 🙂
Thanks!
I have to admit, I do feel a little better about my family relationships. As annoying as my nephews can be, I’ve never felt the need to slay one, and as far as I know, none of them have ever come after me with a poisoned sword.
Fascinating place. Thanks for writing about it.
🙂
I really really enjoy your posts – I always learn so much from them! Thank you so much for linking up today – it was fascinating as usual.
Have a super weekend!
Thank you, Becca.
That’s very cool. I didn’t realize there was that much to see.
I find new things every time 🙂
Looks like a fun place to stop. I would love to go to that archaeology festival this summer!
So would I 🙂