Snowmobiling in the Arctic (Day out Alta)

After a night in an ice hotel, what could be more logical than spending a day on a snowmobile in the Arctic? After all, I am here to try new things. Let’s dig right in.

We’re going with the good folks at Gargia Lodge, just outside of Alta up in the northernmost part of Norway, well above the Arctic circle. Beginning down in the valley, we’ll head past the tree line up onto the mountain. Specifically, the plateau known as Finnmarksvidda, one of Europe’s last wilderness areas. And you’re coming with. In spirit, at least. Also, you’ll have all the deets for when you go IRL.

Price of the safari includes pick-up and return to Alta, 26 km away. However, we have a car, so we drive ourselves. Until the end of the road. That’s where you’ll find Gargia. We are there just before 10am, and hurry to get into the proper garb before the rest of the group arrives.

In our case, the rest of the group means tour operators from various European countries, here to test a product they will be selling. I approve; too often, travel agents and tour operators have not tried their own product. How can you recommend something you have not tried yourself? Would I write about snowmobiling – or anything else – if I had not tried it myself? I would not! In fact, it would be completely and utterly meaningless. And meaningless is not what Sophie’s World is about. Not even a little bit. But I digress (not for the first time).

Gear – and instruction

On to garb, because that is very important, both for safety reasons and so we won’t freeze out there, braving the elements. Gargia provides the necessary gear, i.e. a thermal suit, proper boots and mittens, and a helmet with a balaclava. Underneath, we are wearing lightweight, warm, wool underwear and wool socks. You can see my packing list in the short video in this review of the world’s northernmost ice hotel.

Annette and I, all kitted out, and raring to go. Photo by Alltid Reiseklar

Driving a snowmobile is not difficult. Or so we are told. All you need, is to be at least 16 years old, and be in possession of a driving licence for a car or moped. We’ll be going in groups of two, taking turns driving and riding pillion. For safety reasons, the person in the back can weigh max 88 kg (about 14 stone or 194 lbs)

Co-owner at Gargia and our guide for the day, Arnt Bjørnø, takes us through the few things we need to know. He will see how we go, and give further instructions along the way if needed. We have Snorre Kristiansen driving behind us as well, to keep an eye on us. And off we go; I drive first, then we’ll switch going back. Throughout, we are well taken care of. Arnt and Snorre take time to make sure we are all in control and feel we can master these unfamiliar vehicles.

The old post route

Our trail today goes through the area known as Beskades, along the old post route between Alta and Kautokeino. We will drive for nearly 30 km across the wide, white, windy terrain, towards Suolovuopmi Mountain Lodge. That is quite a distance. It seems a little daunting at first. But that’s soon forgotten. This is fun! To top it all, the weather is beauuuutiful, the wind is at our back and the winter sun on our faces.

We stop frequently along the way, both to get a break, and to learn about this unique landscape and the history of the area. Also, Arnt wants to check on us, to make sure we are all there, and are handling things. Apparently, in a group a few days earlier, one of the participants (which nationality shall remain nameless) overturned the vehicle. That’s no good, neither for man nor (motorised) beast.

Arnt, our skilled guide and lead driver, giving us a brief overview of the area

Our trail starts from Gargia’s car park, then quickly heads up a few inclines and onto the Finnmarksvidda plateau.

Road signs seemingly in the middle of nowhere

Life lessons from the skidoo seat

The road meanders along the entire landscape; an endless expanse of white, merging with the cerulean skies.

Driving along, I’m thinking that going off the track will be unsteady and difficult, so I have been following the trail. But Snorre says it’s the other way around. ‘Get off the tracks,’ he says. ‘Get onto the untouched snow. Form your own trail. It is much easier going.’ Turns out, he is right. And as we continue, I cannot help but think that is a good metaphor for life in general.

Don’t follow in the tracks of others. Forge your own trail. It’s much easier going. (And much more fun.)

After 27.1 km of wide open road, we stop for lunch at cosy Suolovuopmi Lodge, where we hang out with this furry beauty –

– have delicious bread straight from the oven –

– and equally delicious fish soup, with Arctic char and Kamchatka crab.

This pleases me, as it has been a lot of reindeer on the menu lately.

It is about the journey, not the destination.

However cosy at Suolovuopmi, and however yummy the fish soup, this day is about the journey, not the destination. Nor is it about going as fast as possible (although, gotta admit, that is part of the fun). The snowmobile is simply a means to get even further out in nature. Transportation. Going back, we switch. Annette is now the designated driver, and I lean back and snap photos until my fingers freeze.

We are now heading into the blue hour. I love that magic time of day, after the sun has veered a good ways below the horizon. All is quiet. Quiet as falling snow. Winter silence is not like any other silence. The complete lack of sound seems to go straight into your core, transforming into an inner silence.

Blue hour. Full moon. White, vast wilderness. Winter’s perfect calm.

Until we fire up these babies once more.

Along the way, we pass local lad, Kenneth Breivik, out ice fishing on this lovely Saturday afternoon. We stop for a chat and he shares his bag of sweets around.

The return journey seems to be much quicker than going out. (Doesn’t it always?) Soon we are back at Gargia Lodge. Too soon. With a tinge of regret, we switch off the engines for the last time.

Photo by Alltid Reiseklar

Disclosure: The Nordic Escape and I travelled to Alta to hang out with our blogger colleague Alltid reiseklar and to hopefully see Aurora Borealis. Then momentum (i.e. Ann-Mari) happened, and Gargia Lodge very kindly invited us to try their snowmobile safari on the Finnmarksvidda Plateau. As always, every word, every thought, every opinion is mine, all mine. Otherwise, this would be meaningless. Oh, and those Northern Lights? ‘Fraid not. Aurora was as elusive as ever. So we have a good excuse to return.