Café Gerbeaud: Sumptuous sweets and magical mood in Budapest

On Vörösmarty Square in Pest, Gerbeaud has been around since 1858. Some say it's touristy and over-priced. Me, I adore the atmosphere of another era in this Budapest cafe: high ceilings with plaster rosettes and crystal chandeliers, silk wall papers, solid brass-footed tables, and heavy velvet [...]

Books and ghosts in Norway’s fjordland

In the middle of fjordland Norway, Mundal Hotel is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year. This family-owned hotel has creaking stairs, a great turret bed room, a library, a billiards room, a music room, deep leather chairs by the fireplace - and books; not just [...]

Pyramiden – an Arctic ghost town

I'm in Pyramiden, once a showcase of the Soviet Union, a perfect mining community, set between mountains, glaciers and fjords in the Svalbard archipelago. Today, it's an Arctic ghost town. The decision to abandon the settlement was sudden, its implementation even more so. The inhabitants [...]

Pizza night in the Italian countryside

Today is Thursday. I wish I were at La Tavola Marche, a wonderful agriturismo and cooking school in Le Marche, one of Italy's least known regions - and, as it happens, a wonderful place to have pizza in Italy. You see, every Thursday, Ashley and [...]

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