Are you old enough to remember the Balkan wars of the 1990s? The feeling of horror that such a thing could happen in Europe yet again, less than 50 years after the last war on the continent? Seems we never learn.
As a result of the Dayton Accords of 1995, war-town Bosnia & Herzegovina was divided between Croats/Bosniaks and Serbs in the ratio 51 – 49. The Croat/Bosniak part (called the Federation of Bosnia & Herzegovina) is the better known, and home to famous cities and tourist sites like the capital Sarajevo, the beautiful, evocative city Mostar and the unusual pilgrimage town Međugorje.
The other political entity, Republika Srpska, is less familiar. Of course, a few of its citizens are famous – or infamous, rather, such as former president of the republic, Radovan Karadžić, and former Chief of Staff of the Srpskan army, Ratko Mladić, both still detained by the ICTY (International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia) in the Hague, on trial for genocide.
But enough about politics. Curious to visit this little-known country, I decided to have a closer look when I was next in the area. It was closer than I thought. Just 25 minutes after driving out of Dubrovnik airport, I crossed the border to Republika Srpska, and soon entered the city of Trebinje.
Trebinje
What I discovered was a very pretty riverside town with mills, bridges, leafy squares, ancient city walls and an Ottoman old town. Despite its proximity to Dubrovnik, Trebinje is not at all a tourist town. In fact, what I really liked about it, was that the old town is simply a neighbourhood where people live.
Here’s a little photo gallery of this quaint town in southeastern Herzegovina. Enjoy!
Trebinje has some lively markets. Again, nothing touristic about them at all, simply local markets selling fruits and vegetables or flowers – or clothes from under an ancient overpass, presumably to keep the sellers out of the heat of the sun. Then, there are books! Lots and lots of books.
Practicals:
- Trebinje is very easily accessible, from both Dubrovnik in Croatia and from Herceg-Novi or Kotor in Montenegro. Depending on time/money, either hire a car or take a taxi from Dubrovnik airport (should cost about 40-50 EUR) or catch the daily bus from Dubrovnik bus station which takes twice the time and costs about 1/10 the price. The bus leaves at around 1.30 pm. The bus back to Dubrovnik leaves Trebinje in the morning. There’s also a bus from Trebinje to Mostar.
- There are a number of hotels in town, all very affordable (and certainly in comparison with Dubrovnik).
It sure doesn’t look like a touristy town. I’d like it that way as well so we can see the town for what it is rather than focused on tourists.
I quite liked that too. Almost surprising these days…
Hi Sophie, no I haven’t been. This is the first time I heard about Republika Srpska, in fact. I like Trebinje’s charm of not being touristic at all. I love market places that purely cater to locals. I’ll keep Trebinje in mind when I visit Dubrovnik. Thanks for telling me about it.
Oh yes, do try to make it to Trebinje when you’re in the area, even for just a daytrip.
What w lovely place!! I remember the war very well, even if I was 10 or so then. And after my last year visit in Bosnia (sadly only to Mostar and Sarajevo) I developed a strong interest in that topic. Ever since I came back I’m planning another visit in the region and now I’ll remember to include Trebinje in it too!
There’s quite a lot to see in Bosnia, so lots to cover 🙂 (I haven’t seen Sarajevo yet, but very curious to.)
Sarajevo is really great! It doesn’t feel like a big city at all, the atmosphere is so charming and the location is just breathtaking! You can’t see all that much that the war was there recently (not like in Mostar) however there are lots of graveyards on the hills, clearly seen from the center…
Thanks, Sarajevo is on my list. Just the name alone is so evocative…
Wow, your pictures are both haunting and hopeful. I remember the war well. It’s nice to see the beauty of Trebinje.
Thanks.
Love hearing about a place that isn’t touristy but could be if the word got out. Looks like a timeless kind of place. Your images are beautiful.
Thanks, Leigh. It did feel timeless.
What a pretty town! Love the markets – my kind of place
If you’re ever in Dubrovnik…
It’s indeed a very pretty town. I haven’t been there yet, but I would to go. I like that it’s not very touristy yet, but they have a lot of things to offer to travelers.
It’s still a bit off the beaten track.
Love the gallery. Would be good to go there and wash all of the 90s horror out of the place.
So true, Mette!
Great post with wonderful pictures! I just found this site and its great. I hope to read more reviews soon!
We travelled last autumn all Balkan countries and Serbia became our favourite. The only downsides were numerous border crossings and somewhat expensive bus trips. You can travel cheaper from Belgium to Netherlands than Albania to Macedonia. Other than that, it was an awesome experience. Hope we will soon get rid of ridiculous passports, borders. and countries.
Wouldn’t that be something: no more borders… A hundred years ago, passports weren’t necessary to travel around in Europe – but then with wars and everything they were needed to keep out spies.
Yes, until the 1st world war. Now they are needed to control us and spy our movements.
I like how you captured a bit of the everyday life there and not just the pretty buildings but also some that are run-down. I have been to Croatia but nowhere else in the area but have heard only good things.
You are always introducing me to new places & interesting information about them. I’m definitely old enough to remember the Balkan wars of the 90s, but would never have known about such a nice little town as Trebinje. Would be lovely to visit there and walk in your footsteps.
Thanks, Cathy. Not many seem to know about it, despite its proximity to Dubrovnik.
Sad to think I was born in trebinje a few years before the war and the Serbs now own my land, took my house and made us flee. I wanna go visit one day but I know it won’t be the same.
So sorry to hear that, A. I can’t even begin to imagine how it would be to live through a brutal war in my country, even as a small child.
Beautiful Trebinje,beautiful ppl and food. Trebinje is an interesting city with a charming Old town.Different types of cheese accented with fruits, meats, and other goodies are simple the best.Trebinje is a typical Mediterranean place with rich history.You also can visit cafes and open market in Trebinje to find fresh natural food,fish,vegetables, fruits,meat,prosciutto,cheese,olive….absolutely natural honey of healthy herbals and wines produced.Trebinje is place where locals from Dubrovnik and Montenegro use to buy various needs for their kitchens. Well, you should visit Trebinje – if not for the and beautiful landscape, good food, and rich history then for the one of the best wines (award winning) you will find in the region:City is very close to Dubrovnik and Montenegro and come to Trebinje and enjoy a nice ambient,Old town and hospitality.
One more thing,Trebinje is a very cheap base to explore Dubrovnik and Montenegro coast,what many do not know is that the accommodation, food and other services much cheaper in Trebinje.That is why in recent years has increased the number of tourists staying in Trebinje.
If you are in Herzegovina-RS you must see Foca-Drina River rafting camps,Tjentiste (this site commemorates the famous WW2 Battle of the Sutjeska – Case Black) and Andicgrad. Foca-Drina River rafting camps there are free Wi-Fi in the camps,homemade organic food,live pop/rock … the mountain style, located in Rafting Center Drina-Tara, on the river bank…a rich serbian herzegovina style traditional cuisine and 25km or 42km of rafting. The two rivers and an unforgettable day for rafting which you will remember for a long time.After Foca rafting camps you must visit Andricgrad in Visegrad. Andricgrad is the name of an ongoing construction project located in Visegrad, Republika Srpska,(BH) by director Emir Kusturica.Ofc there is so much to see.
Thanks for all the additional tips on things to see and do in Trebinje. 🙂
Trebinje is becoming known for its Monastery wines.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g303196-d3485580-r177771379-Tvrdos_Monastery-Trebinje_Republika_Srpska.html#REVIEWS
Have visited Yugoslavia every year since 1981 from Kotor to Ulcinj all along the Adriatic coast(apart from one year when there were no flights from Ireland or U.K.) . In recent years have combined Makarska and Herceg Novi (both convenient from Dubrovnik airport). will definitely include Trebinje for a week on next trip.
It’s a pretty little town. Thanks for stopping by 🙂
Congratulation Sophie,this is great post .There is no much information about Trebinje on the internet,so tourists can’t be inform enough about this beautiful Mediterranean town.Trebinje has around 260 sunny days a year and is surrounded with water.There is Bileca lake north of Trebinje,through the town flowing the Trebisnjica river and only 25 km southern is Adriatic Sea 🙂 There are about 20 wineries around Trebinje and wine tourism is popular in recent years.One more interested fact is that Trebinje is town with most of National Monuments in the Bosnia and Herzegovina.Also prices of accommodation,food and tourism services are much more favorable than in Croatia and Montenegro so that is reason why tourists visit Trebinje more and more every year.
These two links can be useful:
http://www.trebinjetravelguide.com/
http://trebinjeturizam.com/index.php?page=home
Beautiful post! My home town 🙂 I went back in 2013 for first time since escaping the war 20 years ago. Now i blog to show people why they must add bosnia to their bucket lists.
http://thebosnianaussie.wordpress.com
How wonderful to hear from someone from this pretty little town! And I agree completely, of course: Bosnia should definitely be on people’s wish lists 🙂
Enjoyed your post very much. That part of the world and it’s people have always fascinated me.
How easy do you think it would be to go as an American and make a living there teaching English?
The Balkans is definitely an interesting and historically action-packed part of the world. I don’t know a whole lot about teaching English as a foreign language, but this site tells me it’s difficult in Bosnia-Herzegovina. However, neighbouring Croatia looks to be much better for that. Good luck 🙂
I trevelled to the Balkans for the very first time in 2008 and kept coming back every year since. I was in Trebinje last year, city is lovely but damn those Serbs are hot! Later I learn that in this area are one of the tallest people in the world. Other than that, nothing compares to Belgrade in spring and Athens in october.