Heading from Hay-on-Wye towards Cardiff, we’re again sidetracked. Driving along A479 in the Welsh national park Brecon Beacons, we suddenly spot the ruins of an ancient castle. Despite the bright day, it looks foreboding, eerie. Naturally, we have to stop and investigate.

Tretower Castle

Inside, it looks a little brighter:

Tretower Court and Castle comprise the dark 12th century castle and the much more pleasant late medieval court residence. Side by side. At the foot of the Black Mountains, they look arresting.

However, what makes this site especially interesting is how the two reflect a change in attitude over the centuries – a shift in focus from war to more peaceful times.

Inside Tretower Court is displayed examples of medieval food. Luckily, some things never change.