On the beach. West End, Tortola, B.V.I.

A short post today, folks. About Tortola.

On the way from Puerto Rico to Saint Martin recently, I had the briefest of stopovers on this green and gorgeous isle, so here’s a tiny taste of the largest of the British Virgin Islands for you. And painkillers.

Although, you will have to imagine the taste of the painkillers. Or experiment your way along to creating your own. Curious? Read on!

One of my favourite things in the Caribbean is the abundance of bright, colourful buildings everywhere.  Tortola, it turned out, is no exception.

Shades of sunshine! 

Another quirk I rather enjoyed was the steep hills. Very, very steep! Driving across the island, I felt like I was driving a roller coaster. (Too busy keeping my eyes on the road and steering, to take photos, sorry.)

Shaken, not stirred

My stay on Tortola consisted of a long, lazy afternoon on the beach, followed by a fun night – also on the beach – with steel drums, Calypso music, and a painkiller. This last bit was generously offered to me by the bartender after I told him about my strained quadratus lumborum. For us non-medics, that’s a muscle in the lower back that has been giving me trouble lately. I know the name because I happened to be queueing next to a physiotherapist in an airport recently, who noticed my walking back and forth rather than sit and wait my turn at the gate like the rest. But I digress.

Expecting a glass of water and a Paracetamol, I instead got a glass of a dark cream-coloured liquid with a cherry on top. A Painkiller, you see, is orange juice, pineapple juice, cream of coconut and a sprinkle of nutmeg. And rum, of course. We are in the Caribbean, after all: land of grog and gaiety… swigs and sunshine… rum and relaxation… OK, I’ll stop now. 😬

Sounds a bit like a Piña colada, you say? It is not dissimilar. However, as opposed to the white rum in Piña coladas, Painkiller is made with dark rum, which means it is not as sweet, and has a slightly smoky flavour. Also, I think it is a bit stronger. It tasted stronger. Felt stronger.

And did it take care of the strained muscle ? Well, I slept like a baby, hopped easily out of bed at 5am, and drove for about one hour of darkness on the roller-coaster roads from West End to the airport. I think we’ll say it works. Temporarily, anyway.

Shop in Road Town, capital of Tortola, B.V.I.

Tortola – and other islands in the B.V.I.

I predict a further visit to the British Virgin Islands in my future. More of Tortola, of course – fabulous hikes and treks to be had, through lush landscapes. But there are other islands in that volcanic archipelago, too, most just a breezy and beautiful ferry crossing away.

Joost van Dyk (Jost van Dyke in English) is named after a 17th century Dutch pirate. Almost appropriate then, that this little isle is home of Soggy Dollar Bar, a sunny place for shady people. It was at this swim-up spot the Painkiller was first invented back in the 1970s.

On Virgin Gorda, bizarre boulders abound, and then there is Anegada. Like Anguilla (but unlike Tortola), Anegada is flat. Also like Anguilla, intriguing names abound: Dead Chest, Fallen Jerusalem, Prickly Pear, Great Dog (and West Dog, George Dog and Seal Dogs)… Most intriguing of all, is the name of Anegada’s capital and only town, The Settlement. That name, you guys! The Settlement! Does it not give you a 17th century feel? Settlers selling their crops at the market place, pirates stumbling drunkenly about… It’s a wonder M. Night Shyamalan hasn’t set a movie here.

Yes yes, I do realise The Settlement is very likely a modern Caribbean town. Or village, I should say, with a whopping 200 residents. But let’s not ruin the fantasy. At least not before I get there.

Is The Settlement a quiet sort of place, similar to The Valley? And will there be a memorial to Princess Diana there, too? I will keep you posted.

Meanwhile, that back muscle feels like it’s about to act up again. *Opens fridge*. Hm… there’s pineapple juice and orange juice here. And look, coconut milk. Not fresh cream of coconut, but tinned coconut milk. Can’t be too picky. Now, what do we have in the kitchen cupboard…

More vibrant Caribbean colours coming up here on Sophie’s World – from Saint Martin and Sint-Maarten, from the Dominican Republic and from Guadeloupe. Watch this space!

World at a Glance is a series of short articles here on Sophie’s World, normally with a single photo, portraying curious, evocative, happy, sad, wondrous or unexpected little encounters.