TBEX Europe is coming up (that’s a travel blogger conference, for non-blogging readers). This year, it’s organised in Girona,
Sound familiar? No? Well, until six years ago, I had never heard of this city either. Even though it’s the capital of the Costa Brava, Europe’s oldest beach resort, I knew nothing of its existence.
But then I stumbled upon it, quite literally. I’ve looked through photos, and dug out an article I wrote for Boots’n’all. Here it is, slightly reworked and shortened.
Having just visited Carcassonne for a writing assignment, I’m on a Barcelona-bound train for a flight home the next day, not looking forward to it. Nothing against Barcelona, you understand – but it’s around 11pm, and I’m not in the mood to wander about a very big city trying to find a bed for the night.
When the train stops briefly in a place called Girona, I look out – and hop off on an impulse.
Not all my impulsive decisions are great. Far from it.
But this one is.
An info board outside the railway station shows Girona has a medieval old town, Barri Vell. Easy decision which way to go then. On the way, the pleasantly bustling La Rambla tempts with life and laughter from numerous outdoor cafes.
Asking a random passer-by, I’m told I have a choice. Go to the right for a hostel – or to the left for a choice of up-market hotels. It’s midnight. My legs go to the left. All by themselves.
At Hotel Historic, I ask for the cheapest option. Turns out to be a huge apartment. Enough to house a large, latin family. Five minutes later, I’m so lonely in that enormous space, I request a change to a simple room. More expensive, but much better.
The shower is huge, with a bewildering array of shower heads and settings. How to use it all? I never work it out, but playing with it amuses me for half an hour or so.
After that, I’m much too tired to go out. Dinner then, is red wine and peanuts from the mini bar. It has happened before.
Sifting through my notes, accompanied by a German dubbed version of South Park on the TV, I barely have time to reflect on this global village – a Norwegian writer in Catalonia, close to the French border, writing in English while watching German-dubbed Spanish television – before I promptly fall asleep.
Good morning, Girona!
The next morning, September has arrived. During the early hours, the air is nippy, the sun barely visible over the rooftops. The peal of church bells tempts me towards the imposing Catedral de Girona.
A side door is open, attracting me with its warm light. The sign on the door proclaims access is for religious purposes only. Cultural visits must use another door. Very well, off I go. Only to find the other door locked!
Can my visit be deemed religious? Well, I am awed by the sheer size and physical presence of cathedrals, and decide that’s religious enough.
Peeking in, a vast silent nave of sombre, grey stone meets my eyes; the widest Gothic nave in the world, I learn. Not a soul in sight. Like a rat to the flute of the pied piper, I’m drawn towards the sound of a deep voice chanting in the distance. Crossing the nave, I spot a priest performing some sort of ritual with an elderly couple. Close up, the voice of the priest resonates and seems to come from everywhere, in an eerie echo effect.
Back in the nave, a sign points to the treasury. Displays of Catholic church wealth generally bother me. I decide the least I can do, is not give any attention to treasures that have likely been amassed through violent and criminal means, in complete disregard for human rights.
Back out in the crisp morning air, I meander down the narrow Carrer Bonaventura Carreras i Peralta with the street to myself. I quickly see that Barri Vell deserves more time for exploration than I can give it this morning. Narrow alleys and medieval stairs appear around every corner. And Portal del Collectionista, a wonderful dusty old book shop (hope it’s still there).
Further along, the hostel Cerveri de Girona has a bright and airy reception area. Much livelier than my chic hotel. I regret not having chosen it last night, both for the price (EUR 15 as opposed to 110) and for computer access.
I adore watching cities wake up. And chocolate spelled with x!
Breakfast is at Xocolateria Antiga, mostly because of the name. It’s a sweet little café. My croissant is sugar-glazed, my orange juice sweetened and the house special – hot chocolate Catalan-style – is strong, thick and, of course, super-sweet. Just to be on the safe side, the Xocolateria provides me with extra sachets of sugar.
The tables are filling up with people enjoying morning xocolatas. Girona is awakening.
At the next table, three generations of local women dressed in bright colours chat in animated Catalan, hands flying all over the place. Mum and grand-mum puff energetically on long, slim cigarettes. Might have been the set of a Pedro Almodovar drama, this – Women on the verge of a nervous breakdown. Or something. I stare shamelessly, totally enjoying the entertainment.
But – as interesting as this scene is, I have places to go, a flight to catch. It’s time to move on, in search of the railway station and some protein. Few passers-by speak English, but are eager to help all the same, replying in Spanish or Catalan or general body language. It works. Soon I’m on the Barcelona train, writing this.
There you have it, folks. Twelve hours in Girona. More or less awake. This town deserves more time for exploration than a late night and a few early morning hours. Looking forward to visiting next month.
What a wonderful idea it was to hop off the train. Catalan-style chocolate is delicious! My granny added cornstarch to thicken it (our family heritage is Catalan, by the way).
As far as I know, the x in the Catalan language sounds like ch, and the Aztecs referred to chocolate as xocolaltl, so it makes sense to call the place a Xocolateria 🙂
How interesting! Any connection between Catalunya and the Aztecs, maybe…?
What a lovely experience. I’d like to watch cities wake up too, but unfortunately it is an struggle against (my) nature.
There is that! Travelling westwards, when jetlag works the right way, is the solution 🙂
Lovely lovely photos, Sophie! Great capture of different stairs!
Thanks, Angela 🙂
Girona is beautiful. Can’t wait to back in September. See you then!
Yay! Look forward to seeing you again, Andrea.
Girona looks like a fin place to visit but sadly I won’t be at TBEX. Are you going to Toronto next year?
I too love watching cities come alive!
Don’t know yet. I have a ticket – and I want to go – and would like to meet you. But it’s nearly a year away. Who knows what happens 🙂
I also love watching a city awakening too. When I traveled to Japan, the first few nights I be wide awake, wondering from convenient stores to the next, then sat by the hotel window over looking the train station, eating my rice balls, and seeing people flocking into the station. =)
Such fun, isn’t it…
Great photos 🙂
Thanks 🙂
Xocolateria definitely would have caught my eye, too. It sounds heavenly. Love the stairs.
Thanks for stopping by, Michele.
There’s something quite exciting about jumping off a train on impulse. I did the same thing in Piemonte and it is now one of my favourite places to return to. I’d love to be going to Girona in September.The city looks fabulous and there’s a brilliant restaurant there that I’d love to try!
Ooh, do share! (Loved your comprehensive NY restaurant guide, btw)
I love the concept of jumping off the train on impulse. We’ve often considered it but haven’t acted on it. I do wish I was coming to TBEX, it would be such fun to finally meet face-to-face. Sigh, but Seattle is a bit of a stretch. . .
Bit of a long way that. Maybe Toronto next year then 🙂
MMMM that Catalan chocolate sounds wonderful! I just don’t know if it would help me wake up or put me back to sleep!?! Love the way you just hopped off the train too. Would love to have that experience 🙂
It’s an interesting way to discover new and unexpected places, I think. Some good, some less so…
Could that be the name in Catalan?
Anyway, I love this story, Sophie. Love your impulse and how lovely it turned out. You could say Girona drew you to her?
I think maybe it did 🙂
The pudding-like chocolate you get in Spain is so wonderful. I can’t understand why it hasn’t caught on in America. We seem to have exhausted ever other signature dish from every country. Why not a chocolate and churros shop? (We have churros–just not with chocolate.) I love these pictures, and am trying to figure out if you ever slept that night?
I did, but not for very long 🙂
How wonderful unexpected pleasures are! Love the stairs and the chocolate with an X 🙂
🙂
I also adore watching cities wake up. Girona looks lovely–I’m really wishing I could go to TBEX Europe.
I wish you could, too, Jenna.
I love the way you captured the alleys and stairways. Girona looks so charming. It’s always great to watch the city wake up and have these few stolen moments of crowd free scenes. I wish I was going to TBEX Europe. I hope to meet you in Toronto next year.
Likewise 🙂
I love the stairs and just rightly up, inspirational. i love the way you captured them and so tempting to just sit down on the stairs, grab a book and read. that will be life for me by then. 🙂
Oh yes, I like that. Just sitting on the stairs reading. Or writing..
Watching cities wake up is a great pastime! Have a great TBEX!
Thanks, Jessica 🙂
I agree – it is fun to watch people going about their morning routines. Especially when I have nowhere I have to be myself!
That’s a given. Almost a bonus that – watching people hasten to work when I don’t have to.
We go to Girona this December 🙂
You’ll enjoy it, I’m sure.
Looking forward to meeting you in Girona Sophie! I’ll be the confused looking one 😉
Look forward to meeting you, too. Might be a bit on the confused side myself.
Can’t wait to meet you there Sophie or to stand on the steps of Girona again. It is such a beautiful and historic city.
Looking forward to both.
What a gorgeous looking little town; a perfect escape for a day or two or even three. Enjoy your time there next month!
Too bad you won’t be there, Nancie.
Girona was already earmarked for me. I just need to get over in that direction. Your post suggests it will live up to expectations. When’s the conference?
21 – 22 September. With fun things to do before and after.
I wish I were going to Girona. There’s still a SMALL chance… flights from Oz are just too darn expensive :/
Fingers crossed, Brooke 🙂
Stairs made the town for sure! It’s a great city views, and I love “mornings’ discoveries” when you can explore a place without being disturbing.
I will probably go in Girona, it will be the first time for me, so I’m hesitating yet to go or not…
The Costa Brava is a beautiful region. Are you considering TBEX Europe next month? Hope to see you there 🙂
Finally, yes I will be there!
Wow – makes me want to go to Girona now – looks fantastic, loved reading about the chocolate cafe spelt with an ‘x’, makes me think about delicious chocolate con churros that you get in Madrid and South America…mmmmm
All the pictures are uncommon :). In twelve hours you did a great job. Nice presentation. Are you a professional photographer?
What a lovely experience. I’d like to watch cities wake up too, but unfortunately it is an struggle against (my) nature.I love the stairs and just rightly up, inspirational. i love the way you captured them and so tempting to just sit down on the stairs, grab a book and read. that will be life for me by then
I left a little bit of my heart in Girona 🙂 Oh, to be there for the flower festival!
All your pictures are looking very professional. I really want to visit this place very soon. Hopefully this year.