Do not enter
Ever since reading Wilfred Thesiger’s Arabian Sands as a young’un, I have wanted to visit Saudi Arabia. But women were not allowed to enter this enigmatic desert kingdom until they were 45, unless they were accompanied by a father or husband. That was a magic number, apparently – the age when we would no longer be considered a dangerous temptation for the local male population.
Back in the day, riding a camel through the Empty Quarter was what fascinated the teenage version of me. Still does.
In Bahrain some 10-15 years ago, I remember looking across King Fahd Causeway, the bridge that connects the two countries, feeling a bit irritated that I was not allowed to cross the border, like Bahrainis did all the time, to have lunch in Dammam, or go shopping, or just have a look around. Dammam is just a one-hour drive from Manama.
But there I was, without a father or husband on hand. Shut out, for all intents and purposes. And even if I would have had one of those at the ready, as a non-Muslim, I would only have been let in as an expat worker or on a business visa.
Jeddah sunset
Over the years, the fascination kept its hold on me. There’s nothing quite as inviting as a ‘do not enter’, is it? (Just you wait, Mount Athos).
That was then, this is now
Now that is all changed. The holy city of Maccah is still off limits to non-Muslims, but other than that, travelling to – and in – Saudi Arabia couldn’t be easier.
Crown Prince Mohamed bin Salman, who is also Prime Minister, has modernised the country and diversified the economy to reduce the its dependence on oil. The solution is tourism. In 2019, Saudi Arabia opened its doors for international visitors and made the visa process easy and flexible. (More on that in the practicals section at the end of this post). The goal: attract 100 million visitors in 2023. By all accounts, they seem to be on track.
The strict dress code for women has been dropped, as well. No burka, niqab, abaya, or even hijab, oh glory! (You know how much I dislike being invisible). Apart from having to wear a head scarf when visiting a mosque, the current rules say modest dress. You cannot wear next to nothing, no see-through or super tight-fitting clothes. We interpret ‘modest dress’ to mean relaxed everyday clothes, pretty much the same as we would wear on summer days at home. That works perfectly fine.
Although there is no longer a law requiring women to wear abaya or niqab, it takes time to change centuries-old traditions.
Jeddah: the gateway to Makkah
So where to go? All we have is a long weekend, so we will have to settle for seeing just one city. But which one? Riyadh? Jeddah? Dammam? Perhaps including a stop in Manama again?
It could have gone either way, but in the end, I decided Jeddah sounded the most interesting.
After a 21-hour stopover in Istanbul, we step on board Turkish Airlines and immediately understand the phrase gateway to Makkah. The majority of our fellow passengers on the Jeddah flight are dressed in simple, white ihram, the obligatory outfit for a pilgrimage to Makkah (often spelled Mecca), birthplace of Mohammad and the holiest city in Islam.
Our flight begins with a prayer over the loudspeakers, with subtitles on the screens in front of us – in Arabic, Turkish and English.
The cabin crew hand out amenity kits – or so I think. No toothbrush and skin care products in a toiletry bag here. Instead, we get a lightweight, foldable backpack, containing a prayer mat and a click counter, which I’m guessing is to keep count while performing the tawaf: circling the Kaaba 7 times, counter-clockwise. To complete the Hajj, pilgrims are required to perform this ritual around the large black shrine in Makkah.
Jeddah, city of contrasts
Seems most flights in these parts of the world fly at odd hours. Landing at JED at 01.30, we get a taxi, which turns out to be, well, not very official, and way overpriced. But it’s the middle of the night, so I let it go. For the rest of our time in Jeddah, we use Uber.
With nearly 6 million, Jeddah is a populous city. But it’s also big: 1600 sq. km., bigger than Delhi or Mexico City or London or Bangkok or LA, so it does not feel crowded at all. Wherever we go in Jeddah, I feel I have lots of space.
Jeddah is also a city of contrasts in terms of architectural tradition, from the old Roshan houses to Jeddah Tower, which is underway to becoming the first building in the world to exceed 1 km in height! Move over, Burj-Khalifa.
Al-Balad: Historic Jeddah
Jeddah was established in the 7th century CE here on the shore of the Red Sea, as an important port city for trade routes on the Indian Ocean. It was also the entry point to Makkah. Pilgrims have arrived here for 1,400 years, by sea in the past, and mostly by plane today. With that kind of history, it’s no wonder Jeddah is a very multicultural city.
Al-Balad, the UNESCO-listed old city, is our first stop.
Early Friday afternoon in Al-Balad (meaning ‘the town’)
Al-Balad is characterised by distinctive architecture, particularly the 19th century tower houses with wooden windows/balconies known as Roshan – built in a mix of Arab, Persian and Ottoman traditions.
I’m reminded of the gallerija, the lovely wooden balconies in Valletta.
Although the visual impression is important, it’s not just about aesthetics. The design works well in the humid climate, providing ventilation and lighting, as well as privacy.
The Corniche: Jeddah’s waterfront
The Corniche is a 30-km coastal area along the Red Sea, with beaches, fishing piers, recreational areas, pavilions, fountains, sculptures and more. On this Friday afternoon, locals are out enjoying themselves.
The corniche has several playgrounds, including a water park,
and plenty of kiosks, cafes and restaurants.
Most people though, have brought picnics and colourful rugs – and relax on the fishing pier,
– or in the grass.
Many Saudis still wear traditional clothes: women in the black niqab and men in the white thawb.
The tale of the tall flagpoles
The 162-metre high flagpole in Baku was once the world’s tallest. Until the one in Tajikistan‘s capital took over with its 165 metres. By the time we were in Dushanbe, an even taller one was built here in Jeddah. But it seems I’m too late yet again. The current record holder is Egypt, with the 202-metre high Cairo flagpole.
The things men people compete for
Roundabouts
Jeddah is also famous for the many creative roundabouts.
Partial to the flying carpet, myself
Food
Ever since I was at uni with friends from all over the Middle East, it has been my favourite food, especially all the delicious meze. But it’s becoming a tradition to check out a completely different cuisine: Lebanese in Sierra Leone, Argentinian and Peruvian in Senegal, and now Japanese in Saudi Arabia.
City Walk/Little Asia
Jeddah puts on various entertainment carnivals around the year. Just when we are here (December 2023), Little Asia introduces visitors to eight East Asian countries, with lots of cultural events. We show up on an impulse, only to find out there are no more tickets available that day. Plan ahead and book tickets online.
Shopping malls
Mall of Arabia
I’ve heard it again and again: shopping malls are important meeting places all over the Arabian Peninsula. And Saudi Arabia certainly is no exception. This is where business is conducted and shesha smoked in lounges.
We have a look at Mall of Arabia (conveniently located near the airport) and the rather romantically named Red Sea Mall. Whilst Jeddah’s malls aren’t quite on par with those in Dubai in terms of creative design, they are spacious and shiny and contains everything you want.
Surprisingly for a city that has a mean temperature of 30° C all year round, winter clothes are everywhere in the shops. Woollen jumpers, big down jackets, sheep skin coats… I guess the Djeddien like to travel to colder climes. (Couldn’t find the English name for the people of Jeddah, so I’m using the French demonym).
Leaving Jeddah
Yet another odd-hour flight
Jeddah practicals
- Visa: Visitors from 63 countries can get an e-Visa or a Visa on arrival – multi-entry, valid for 1 year, for stays up to 90 days – for 480 SAR (ca 116 EUR/128 USD).
- Money: The currency is Saudi Riyals (SAR). ATMs are everywhere, but you don’t really need cash, as practically every shop, restaurant, etc. accepts credit cards and Apple Pay.
- Getting around: Ubers are easily available, and I must say, more dependable than in most countries I’ve been, when it comes to being on time. Driving is another matter, though – one of our Uber drivers watched a soap opera and talked on the phone whilst driving in the rather unruly traffic. There are lanes, often many, many lanes, but it might just as well not have been. Everyone seems to drive all over the place, weaving in and out of the lanes – or staying half in one lane and half in another. That said, Saudi Arabia has ambitious goals in many areas, including increasing road safety. And they have succeeded. The number of road traffic deaths and serious injuries has been reduced by 35% in only 5 years. Now, if they can get drivers to understand that indicators are there for a reason, they might succeed even further.
Historic Jeddah, the Gate to Makkah is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here are more UNESCO World Heritage sites around the world.
