Smoking sheesha in Edfu and waterborne shops at Esna

Tuesday 8 January 2008: At Aswan, we were joined by new passengers. They would naturally stop ad have a look at the Horus Temple at Edfu. But we've seen it, been there, done that. Instead, we're invited to a cafe to have a go at [...]

Boating the Nile – in the 1800s and today

It’s early January on the Nile. Early morning as well. The girls are still asleep. I’m alone on deck. Going down river (north) is windier. The pages of my note pad is blowing fiercly, at times lightly whipping my face. It’s bitterly cold.

Afternoon Tea at the Old Cataract in Aswan

Still Monday 7 January 2008: In the felucca, we sailed past the Old Cataract Hotel. From the Nile, this old world hotel looks grand, perched on the granite bluff above. If you’ve seen Death on the Nile, it will also look familiar. Alex, my oldest [...]

Elephantine and Nubians

By Aswan in the River Nile is Elephantine Island. It houses temple ruins (including the ruins of a step pyramid), two nilometers (structures measuring the water level during flooding season) and a luxury Mövenpick hotel. Most interestingly, though, Elephantine has a considerable Nubian population, living in three villages on the island.

Aswan highlights

Still Sunday 6 January 2008: What a long day, wonderful and fascinating day! And there's even a lot left of it. We've had a look at a few Aswan highlights, and there's more to come. Aswan High Dam Lake Nasser After lunch, we have a [...]

Idle musings along the Nile

Sunday 6 January 2008 - still relatively early. It’s 0930, we’ve come back from Kom Ombo, had breakfast and the girls are resting in the cabin. I am on the sun deck, watching life and scribbling notes as we drift slowly up river. Food for [...]

Kom Ombo, the Crocodile Temple

Very early Sunday 6 January 2008: Another bright and early morning - up at 0530 - for an early visit to the temple at Kom Ombo before the crowds. Increasingly, I mind less and less having to get up before the sun. Today, it feels [...]